I grew up in this town called Elgin, IL. When I was little it had everything a kid could want. Department Stores, theatres, restaurants, parks, pools, 25 cent ice cream cones, a rocket slide, caged buffalo, a box car derby, warring Greek restaurants and on and on....and everyone knew everyone else. It was awesome. And safe. And pretty. One side of my family has been in this town since the 1800's. The other side came here all the way from Sicily and set up a woodworking shop that is still in business, thank you very much...Elgin is a huge part of who I am. (I was born in 1976 by the way, so this isn't one of those "remember when JFK came to town and I got to shake his hand" stories that I had to hear 56 times at the Thanksgiving dinner table when my grandmother wanted to trump anything we had to say about our miserable little lives.)
But in the early 1980's something changed...I blame it on a mall opening one town north. Eventually the department stores in Elgin either closed or moved up there to try to survive. No one went downtown to shop anymore. My shoe store was gone. The shoe store next to the shoe store was gone. Brenner's was gone, forcing every man in town to go to Sears for their suits which in itself is a bigger tragedy than any other mentioned here. The chain reaction that occurred because of the lack of business in downtown was shocking and depressing. Elgin was still relatively safe, just God damn awful boring.
In the late 80's (it may have been earlier but this is my personal recollection as I am only 27...do the math, punk, I'm 27 and sticking to it) the gangs moved in from Chicago and started a minor reign of terror and everyone got scared. People started moving away and any movement that was still in downtown all but came to a halt. It was a ghost town. We kids started to say "To have fun in Elgin you have to leave". Making fun of Elgin (hilariously and cleverly nicknamed "Hellgin" by those of us who could read and write) became everyone's favorite past time.
Then in 1994, after years of absolutely nothing happening, the casino moved in. And during the next decade things started to change again...parks. restaurants. new construction. People even tried to open retail shops that were super awesome (R.I.P. "Simple"- I miss you.) Things had definitely perked up in town. So much so that "they" (whoever "they" are!) built brand new condos and townhouses in several areas throughout the slowly becoming functional downtown. It was slow going, but dammit, it was happening. People were actually coming downtown- even if it was for discount booze and nickel slots...
Fast forward to last weekend. My friend "Bosco" (we thought it would make her/him look super important and mysterious if his/her name was changed)leased an apartment right in the middle of everything downtown (Bosco is from WAY out of town and has only been here a couple years, so Bosco has only witnessed Elgin as it stands today. And Bosco likes Elgin!) I never thought I'd see the day where I felt like I was in a luxury Chicago high rise but the view outside was of the town where I had spent my entire childhood.
So I proposed an experiment...(I do this often to pass the time because I have realized that I am completely unable to just "hang out" without a serious purpose. I'm working on this, I swear...)
The question was this: Can we spend three days in downtown Elgin without having to leave for any reason whatsoever?
I wanted to see if Elgin had really changed to the point of being able to sustain a community on only what is offered within the limits of downtown. Could we live there the same way my grandma did- by not driving at all, only using the products and services in downtown to "survive" and having an all around awesome super duper time in the process? (Grandma would walk in heels everyday to work at a dress shop, uphill both ways...the heels were not part of the experiment.)
Well, after all that exposition, here is what we did and what we found out!
Friday, 5:30 pm: After a stroll from Bosco's parking lot where I wave bye bye to my Buick for 3 days, I take a stroll to Ravenheart Cafe for an iced coffee before I have a business meeting in the "new" fountain square plaza (my mom insists that the REAL fountain square plaza was where "the bank" used to be and there was a big fountain...on a square...or a plaza..but it was at the corner of Chicago and Grove. Whatever. There's still a plaza near it and there's a fountain, so I'm calling it Fountain Square Plaza. It's my blog and my story).
We sit outside on Mad Maggie's patio, which is really comfy and the service is great. We have our meeting. We could have had dinner but instead drinks are in order (which is a recurring theme throughout the weekend...). We get done what we need to do and I go on my way, stopping in front of Bosco's building to say hi to my friend (What's up Bob Mihelich! Woot!)and his beautiful family, who have just finished a dinner at Al's Cafe. (Which happens to be the first place I worked when I was 14 and was the only reason I ever went downtown back then besides whatever project I was working on at Hemmens...I still remember how to make the malts and my mom to this day thinks I hold some kind of priceless secret recipe in my brain for the Burns' malt. I let her think it's more of a mystery that it actually is. She and I have our days...)
Up to Bosco's place. What a balcony and what a view. You can see about 4 different church steeples, Old Main, the Casino, the plaza, the tower building and yes, pot smoking teenagers waiting for Mad Maggie's to open so they can catch a glimpse of whatever the hell band will be there (said pot smoking teenagers will make an appearance later. stay tuned.)
A good friend of Bosco's from another part of the world (can you say SYCAMORE?) is joining us for dinner. SO- we have another obstacle- can a foreigner be entertained in downtown Elgin?
We go to Toom Toom Thai Cafe for dinner. It's on Grove and it's FRIGGIN DELICIOUS. It's BYOB, which isn't a problem since Bosco and the foreigner have that detail taken care of...Nick's liquors is down the street! We have a huge feast of Thai food and not only is it all ridiculously tasty, but the service is great and the atmosphere is super cool. (*Redroom* *redroom*). Even the massage therapist from the Centre eats there. I saw her. It's true. That must mean it's good food. And very relaxed food, too.
From Toom Toom we walk up the street to my personal favorite bar in Elgin, Villa Verone. Have you been there? You should go. The food is insanely good and the owner, Pietro, will do everything he can to make you feel welcome. (Thursday night is ladies' night with $5 glasses of wine. Who likes that deal? This girl.) We have some (and by some I mean eleventy) post dinner cocktails and dessert. Any place that gives me a huge scoop of Spumoni with a wink and a smile is good by me! I see Jeff and Margaret Kim, who are taking over the world one Kyukido studio at a time, as well as my friend Barb and her family, who owns Dancer's Paradise. (Jeff and Margaret are not trying to take over Barb. That was a poorly written sentence). If you know anyone who dances, send them to Dancer's Paradise on W Chicago street right by the Dairy Queen. They have everything you could ever want including tap shoes in a size 11. Don't ask how I know.
We then walk...err, uh, stumble...up Chicago Street to The Elgin Public House where we run into the entire cast of Joseph and The Amazing Technicolor Dreamcoat, who were celebrating a successful opening night at Hemmens. Our friend from Sycamore is delighted, hiccuping and glassy eyed. The foreigner is satisfied. We walk back down Chicago Street, past the glitter-ified girls waiting to get into Medusa's and the hip, smoking, martini sipping pretty people outside Martini Room. TIME FOR BED.
(NOTE: Bosco has not installed curtains yet. Downtown Elgin is BRIGHT at night. Vegas bright. I sleep with my oversized Nicole Richie sunglasses on. As per usual.)
Saturday 5:30 AM
Smell that? My retinas are burning. Bosco...come on...seriously, curtains please. I turn over to go back to sleep shielding my eyes with my blanket, when I hear Sycamore is awake, too! Bosco goes to entertain him. I fall back asleep and when I wake up- BAM- 6 huge pastries and coffee from Pastigel, the bakery on Chicago Street near Douglas Ave. Bosco walked over there when they opened at 7 a.m. and Voila! Breakfast. 6 ginormous pastries for $5.40. Oh how we ate...Alberto, you make a mean Apple Fritter.
After 16 glasses of water, 2 pastries and a coffee I lace on my running shoes and run over to the Centre for my morning workout. I totally forget my ID. They let me in anyway because they know me. Sweet. I do my workout and run back towards Bosco's and find myself in the middle of 17 white festival tents between Hemmens and City Hall. What the hell? Festival? What festival? Richard Pahl informs me via Facebook that it's Fiesta Salsa and that he'll see me there later (which he never did. Richard, where the hell were you?).
After Sycamore getting on the road and a few loose ends to tie up with the apartment, we hit the pavement to complete our errands for the day, which are many! First up: LUNCH (there were a lot of loose ends). At the recommendation of Richard Pahl (who is apparently starring in this blog) and Amy V., we walk to Highland and Grove to Domani Cafe for the best Cuban Sandwich this side of South Beach...or, perhaps, Havana, if I had ever been to Havana...as well as an Iced Chai Tea Latte which beat the hell out of Starbuck's. We stuff our faces and make friends with the owner.
Then it's off to Highland and Douglas to The Razor's Edge. Bosco needs a haircut and everyone knows that Bruce Corn is the best barber in town. What a lot of people DON'T know, however, is that The Razor's Edge has a full staff and not only offers men's and women's haricuts, but manis and pedis and waxing and everything else you could want to make yourself look pretty as a picture...and a gumball machine.
Next stop is Salon Couture so I can get my Aveda products which I've convinced myself are so much better for me than any other products which is probably a lie but they smell damn good. On the way there we check out the diamonds in Shockeys and the treasure in Keeney's front windows. I get my product. I am happy. Bosco with the new haircut is happy. We're sooooo pretty.
OK, we need food for the apartment. Where the hell are we going to get food without walking allllll the way down Grove to Butera? I remember my sister in law telling me about a little secret. We walk east on Chicago Street (past Elgin Books, an antique shop with some records in it (R.I.P. Apple Tree), Simple Balance Yoga Studio, a tattoo placed that I can't remember the name of even though I got my first tattoo there... and the YWCA) then south on Chapel and we find "La Roca", A small grocery store with everything from Jarritos to fresh cuts of meat. (And Snow Cones outside! SCORE!)We get a dozen eggs, some Chihuahua cheese and a couple bottles of water. A protein filled breakfast for the next day. (We like to pretend like we're on this really strict diet. We're not. See: Spumoni, above).
We walk back down the hill to Bosco's apartment, drop off the groceries and head off to Fiesta Salsa. Here we find salsas made by all these different area restaurants and we are to sample each of them and vote at the end. (I voted for Red Bar's salsa- so many roasted red peppers, it was delicious. Al's Cafe wins in the end). Question: have you ever eaten 20 different salsas, washed them down with a virgin pina colada being sipped through a straw sticking out of a hollowed out pineapple being used as a glass with a 2 foot doilie on a stick poking up above your head on a 110 degree day? I have. We walk back to Bosco's to cool off.
....And Wolverine is on. WOLVERINE. I can't say no to that movie. EVER. I am a dork. (See: shoulder tattoo of Milhouse and Star Wars collectibles in my kitchen) The plans we had to go to dinner and to see live music at Mad Maggie's or Public House get pushed back a bit as we watch Hugh Jackman and Liev Schreiber hunt eachother down.
Fancy Schmancy Dinner Time: Dundee might have the Anvil Club but WE have the Casino! That's right, we get dressed up and walk through Festival Park (which still has kids playing in it at 8:45 p.m.- sweet) to Buckingham's at the Casino. Along the way we find ourselves getting a contact high from the pot head teenagers we saw outside Mad Maggie's the night before. They're just walking down the street smoking a joint. Wow. That's brave.
Once Harold and Kumar are gone, it's time for Oysters and Chateaubriand (or however you spell it). Oh. My. God. FANTASTIC. It might be at the boat, but I highly recommend taking your out of town guests or your girlfriend who you want to impress (or possibly undress) to Buckingham's. Ask for Juan. He knows his stuff.
After dinner we take my leftovers (I'm on a diet, remember??) back to Bosco's and meet up with the newlyweds, Despina and Giotis, at Martini Room. It's not as packed as it usually is on a Saturday night, but we have the best waitress I've ever had there- her name is Christina. The only thing better than her service is the DJ's song selection, which includes everything from Grandmaster Flash to En Vogue to Michael Jackson. It was like being back in high school- except with less booze.
We walk back to the apartment and go to sleep, facing away from the window this time.
Eggs are good! Score! Thank you La Roca! And the muffin from Pastilega is still fresh! YAY! And don't ask me how the Ghiradelli mint chocolates from Buckingham's were the next morning. We're on a diet...
After brushing the chocolate and mint out of my teeth, we get ready for the day. We have A LOT to do. First up: we need Aleve. Uh oh...this is the first thing we need that we just can't get. Medicine. The drug stores in Elgin all went away a long time ago. According to my calculations, the closest drug store to downtown is the CVS at Summit and Dundee. Eew. Totally not walking there...Crud. We'll have to drive.
I also need some other beauty type things that are non Aveda (have I mentioned how vain and beauty obsessed I am?). Again, no drug store to buy this. I decide I'll get them later. Bosco needs curtains and we are going to buy curtains if it kills us...there's nowhere to buy curtains...that I know of (please please please correct me if I'm wrong....).
So there we were. We needed housewares and aspirin and couldn't get them in downtown Elgin...so we had to climb in the Buick and go off to Walgreens on the West Side (I don't particularly care for CVS)and then what the hell, let's go to IKEA.
But when we got back we DID go to AL's for lunch and were waited on by Kyle, the world's friendliest waiter who, even though he called me "m'am", was a nice closer to the experiment. (Good luck hitchhiking through Colorado and Oregon next week, you crazy bastard!)
Finding: Elgin is full of friendly, talented people who still have a loyal sense of community and are mostly proud and hopeful for their town. There were only 2 things that we really needed that we couldn't find. However, groceries, haircuts, hoity toity beauty products, books, vintage vinyl, yoga masters, fitness centers, random food festivals, joint smoking slackers, food from eleventy different nations, live music, live theatre, old friends, new friends, friendly wait staff, cheap ass breakfasts, great coffee, diamonds, U-46 gym uniforms and a SHIT LOAD of alcohol is available in downtown Elgin. But if you have a headache from the sun shining directly into your eyeballs from a naked window in a high rise, you're out of luck.